I paid a visit to Devilles Restaurant in Dalkey last Friday. A new restaurant on Castle Street, I was interested to see what the latest Dalkey eatery had to offer, especially since it had replaced a long established (but questionable) restaurant on the main street. The menu consists of fairly standard meat and fish dishes that are common amongst a lot of restaurants these days, relatively traditional food with a twist or taken up a notch. The menu can be accessed here.
With ambient lighting and an array of different seating options including booths and high tables the restaurant is warm and comfortable. It actually reminds of a scene from Boardwalk Empire (without the threat of assassination) which for me was a positive.
To start I had scallops, linguine and a carbonara sauce and my partner had an Irish goat’s cheese and beetroot salad. A relatively expensive starter at €12, I really enjoyed the scallops which were expertly cooked so as to ensure a distinct but not overpowering flavour. The linguine was warm and a great accompaniment. By all accounts the goat’s cheese starter (€9) was equally as appetising.
For the main course I had an 8oz hamburger which was topped with caramelised onions and blue cheese (€12). I chose the skinny cut chips to accompany the main course and oddly enough was also served a side of onion rings which I didn’t order but wasn’t charged for. At the time I didn’t notice. My partner had pork belly confit with black pudding, mash, spinach and apple and sage sauce (€18).
I like my burgers medium and happily it was cooked to perfection, something I wouldn’t take for granted when eating out. The caramelised onions which were served on top added a deep flavour. The warmed blue cheese was served as a side so you could add it yourself depending on your taste. Blue cheese by its nature is an acquired taste and this one worked well as a contrast to the sweetness of the onion. The skinny chips were nice but surprisingly greasy, as were the onion rings which I only had one of and found quite bland.
With this post in mind, I made an effort to ensure I fully sampled the pork belly, much to the annoyance of my partner. I found it slightly too fatty but it tasted very nice especially when combined with the apple sauce and black pudding. The mash and accompanying spinach were relatively simple in terms of dressing but were excellent and complimented the overall dish.
For desert, my partner had the banoffee pie. I had eaten too much in the preceding two courses and bowed out. The reports however were good with a crunchy tartlet case, a smooth banana centre and topped with rich cream. Oddly enough there was no actual desert menu so I don’t know the desert price. This final observation brings me on to the service.
The staff were very polite and accommodating with our food server somewhat over conscious of the delay on our courses. I didn’t really notice any delay and didn’t mention it to any staff member however we were given the desert on the house as way of an apology. Again odd but not surprising given the phantom onion rings. It’s important to remember that the restaurant is only recently opened so I think the staff are working to find their rhythm and I am confident the whole operation will become smoother in time.
We sat at about 21:00 and didn’t leave until 23:00 such was the atmosphere that we never felt rushed and were comfortable the whole time. The total cost was €70 which included the food listed above (minus the desert) plus two glasses of Pinot Grigio and a cup of tea. I have listed below my overall ratings and I can see myself definitely returning in the future especially if I am out with friends. Well worth a look.
- Atmosphere/Layout: 4/5
- Starter: 5/5
- Dinner: 4/5
- Desert: 4/5
- Staff: 3/5
- Value: 3/5
- Overall: 23/30